As a video teacher trying to teach my kids single-frame animation I am very frustrated with the so-called cameras that are supposed to work with this software. i have 4 Canon T5i’s 3 T6-i’s a and 1 canon 80D. Non of them work with “live preview” with this software. The site Boinx has says the T5i works but i have found live preview does not, and to me that is whole reason to use this program right? My cheap web cam works perfect but the quality is not there. So Boinx or someone please tell me what is the best semi (inexpensive) Web Camera to use that is high quality for around $200.00 or less and works? Or what DSLR camera works well (with preview) for this program? i am afraid to buy a high dollar camera again and not have it work as its supposed to. Thanks
@Steven_Orsinelli I’m sorry to hear that you have trouble with iStopMotion.
Supporting DSLR live preview is a nightmare, because the camera vendors never imagined their cameras to be used this way. Only now with the pandemic, they realize that there is a potential for the cameras to be used with video conferencing and so on. We know the T5i used to work in the past, but it is possible that Canon has updated the firmware and broken the iStopMotion support. One frequent problem is that it only works if there is no SD Card in the camera.
Here are a few additional options:
- Get a USB HDMI capture device and find out how to get a clean feed out of the camera via HDMI
- If you have an iPhone or iPad, you can download the iStopMotion Remote Camera.
- The Canon EOS Webcam should work with iStopMotion but we haven’t tried yet: https://www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/support/self-help-center/eos-webcam-utility
Let me know if any of this works for you.
Thanks Oliver…I tried what you said. I borrowed a HDMI to USB converter and connected it with my Canon T5i and it works! The quality is very good however their is a problem in that when doing it this way you get black bars to either side of the image. I went into (Device Settings) but that did not help. I tired (document settings but that also did not help) I think it is an inherent issue with HDMI and DSLR cameras? I also see these black bars when hooking up my DSLR to a monitor or sometimes a black box surrounding the whole image. That being said, all worked well with the converter, preview, onion skin and the rest. I exported it and then imported it into i-movie. There I cropped out the black barsand it looks pretty darn good. I was afraid by cropping it that I might lose some quality, but i could not see any image degradation with my old eyes. So for the hell of it I tried the T6i, and it also worked well (but i could not get rid of the white square in the middle of the viewfinder). Then I tried my canon 80d and it did not work well at all. The image was all over the place with ghosting images and non useable footage. So this is a work around with those who have the T-5i but you need a HDMI/USB converter and you need to crop black side bars out when in post. Oh yeah I also used a very cheap HDMI/USB converter, not sure if thats why I got the bars or not. Thanks
@Steven_Orsinelli Thanks for reporting back with your findings.
The black bars are probably caused by a format mismatch (4:3 vs. 16:9). See if you can make your camera output a 16:9 image. If the image is not distorted, I don’t hink it’s the HDMI to USB converter.
Have you tried the Canon EOS Webcam app with the 80D?
Hey Oliver, Yes i tried putting the camera on 16x9 and the istopmotion in the same format but still get the black bars? Also to my dismay i realized after I posted that the canon DSLR’s work with the HDMI port, there is a little white box in the middle of the camera image that I cannot make go away. Also on the T 5i, same thing, but its not a box its some kind of white framing tool. i went into both menu’s to see if i could get rid of them them, but it must be above my pay grade or something. I have not gave up yet because I like how easy this software is to use and my students like it. Some have apple phones and this is not an issue, but I sure would like to get at least one of my DSLR’s to work, if i can, then my advanced students can make use of it. I have been looking into a high quality USB camera,since my sheap HD one works so well with this program, but their are so many out there, its very hard to choose one that will give me high quality. I do have an older Panasonic P2 camera that is firewire so I might try that today. I think I need “thunder to firewire cable” to make it work with my mac mini’s. Interesting that you mentioned the EOS webcam app. i was looking into that on Friday in-between classes and thought I might give that a try today. i will lewt you know how it goes pal. Thanks for the correspondence.
Ok…Final Test Completed…The Canon 80D (with the HDMI converter) works perfect! No weird bars, no image grids, clear and great quality image. The 80D dos not work well at all via USB. The Canon T5-i also works well as long as you run it in manual mode. Otherwise you will see 2 white grid style lines to either side of the pictures. Forget the T-6, it is a big headache and works only in auto focus, in that mode you can get rid of the “white box” unless you change focal length, then its a pain to get rid of again. Just heard about a product called a “Camlink” that turns most DSLR cameras supported by the product into a web cam config. It’s $120.00 so I might check that out. Also found a very nice high quality web USB camera called a Avermedia PW510 that I will look at. Thanks for all your advice…peace